All Culinary Artist Should Study Here’: Unassuming Turkish Dining Spot Secures Fourth on Roll of London’s Best Food Spots.

When assembling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, situated prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a far-flung part of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the owners completely shocked.

“I am utterly surprised,” remarks the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their small restaurant earning such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all about the fare, and this restaurant more than excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender texture.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s success is likely to resonate beyond its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.